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Drakes Head

Point Reyes National Seashore

October 15th, 2022

8.9 miles
830 vertical feet
Total Time: 4:15

Starting elevation
152 feet
Max elevation
251 feet

Rating: 7/10

Directions: Take 101 north across the Golden Gate Bridge. Exit Sir Francis Drake Boulevard west toward San Anselmo. After 20 miles, you'll reach Olema. Turn right onto Highway 1, then shortly (150 yards) left onto Bear Valley Road. After 2.2 miles, bear left onto Sir Francis Drake. Drive 7.6 miles and turn left at the sign for the Estero Trailhead. Drive another mile along the narrow paved road to the dirt parking lot. Note that this last stretch is NOT a 1-way road (even though its width might lead you to believe so), so drive slow to respond to any oncoming traffic.   View Driving Map



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GPX File

I'd last visited the Estero Trail back in 2003, a lifetime ago. Back then, we'd hiked to Sunset Beach, but I had noted that there was another trail to Drakes Head. It took 19 years, but I finally took that trail.

The drive up to Point Reyes is long, and it was made a little more interesting by a big cycling event. But eventually I made it to the trailhead, where there were only 2 or 3 other cars. It was overcast, cool, and misty. It would pretty much stay that way the whole day. Cows dotted the landscape (and in fact one had stood right next to the road as I drove to the parking lot).

It was a little past 10am, and as I mentioned the lot was mostly empty. But others would drive up and start hiking as we got ready. There's an interpretive sign at the trailhead. Interestingly, it mentioned the possibility of seeing bat rays, which is one of the things I remember seeing (hundreds of them) the last time I was here. I would have no such luck this time, though.

Cows watching the start of the trail

We set off on the Estero Trail, which soon enters a pretty forest. In a few sections, lichen hung from the trees. After exiting the forest, we had a beautiful view of Home Bay in front of us. We crossed a bridge as we enjoyed the quiet stillness of the area. An egret stood off in the distance to the left, but in general I did not see a lot of birds.

Hiking through the forest

Forest and trail

Home Bay as seen from the bridge

Home Bay

We now climbed gently to get better views of the surrounding area. After crossing one of several cattle gates, we continued climbing, then followed the trail as it veers left. It was near this point where I remember seeing the rays in the water below last time. I looked, but didn't see anything now. The trail climbs and descends a couple times before climbing to an intersection. Previously, I had continued straight to Sunset Beach. This time, we turned left to head to Drakes Head.

Lichen

Tortured tree next to the trail

After crossing a cattle guard and going past what looked to be some sort of corral, the trail is marked by blue arrows. There are views in all directions, as there are no trees here and it's a gentle descent.

A guy on a mountain bike passed us as we neared Drakes Head. He stopped shortly after passing us, though. He'd spotted a coyote and pointed it out to us. We were far away and I was too lazy to switch to my telephoto lens, but I took a picture anyway. I only got his backside.

Coyote

Soon we reached Drakes Head. There are great views of Limantour Spit and the Pacific Ocean from here. There's a steep cliff on the southern edge of Drakes Head. It's a much more gentle grade to the east. We stopped for a lunch break here, enjoying the views as raptors flew overhead (usually east to west).

Limantour Spit and Pacific Ocean from Drakes Head

Kayakers near Drakes Head

Closer look at the kayakers

View to west of Drakes Head

Hikers walking in shallow water (dot near center top)

Kayakers

We also viewed kayakers and the occasional hiker on Limantour Spit. There's another series of trails that reaches it from Limantour Road. So maybe I'll come back and visit those trails sometime.

Birds on edge of Limantour Spit

Raptor

Raptor

Raptor

Raptor near Drakes Head

Raptor

After lunch and enjoying the views, we started back. We retraced our steps uneventfully. The sky was still overcast. If anything, it seemed more misty now, even though it was early afternoon. As we crossed the bridge at Home Bay I was struck by how quiet it seemed. There was no wind, the water was still, it seemed so peaceful.

View of a pond on the way back

We reached the parking lot, which was now full. If you want solitude on this hike, starting early is probably a good way to get it. Not that it ever felt crowded. Even full, the lot probably had about 20 cars.


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