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In contrast to all the other hikes we'd done on our Seattle trip,
this hike started out in a Sierra Nevada-like forest. It was completely
shaded as we started the steep climb up. We shortly came to a
bridge over a cascading waterfall.
On the other side of the bridge was a disturbing notice. It gave
details of an inexperienced hiker who'd been missing since July
8th. He'd last been seen on the trail to Mildred Point, where
there was a dangerous river crossing (it being two months later
and the water level lower, the crossing wasn't dangerous anymore).
One would presume he'd fallen in, but they still haven't found
any trace of him. Eerily, when I returned home I received the
latest issue of Outside magazine, which mentioned the presumed
death of the hiker (Joe Wood, former editor of Village Voice).
Falls at the footbridge
The trail follows the river above Christine Falls. Some of the
trail wanders right through steep rock-strewn hillsides, but the
trail is wide and in good condition. The trail soon returns to
the forest. There's a footbridge across a creek fed by some nice
waterfalls. At first I thought it was Comet Falls, but I soon
found out otherwise. A few yards later, we had our first glimpse
of Comet Falls, tumbling 320 feet over a sheer cliff. It was a
magnificent sight and a great place to take a break for lunch.
Comet Falls (too bad I didn't have a graduated neutral density
filter)
A closer look at the cascade after the falls
After our break we continued up the trail for a closer look at
the falls. As might be expected, there was a rainbow at the end
of the waterfall. As we climbed higher we encountered more and
more wildflowers on the side of the trail. They were much more
numerous than on the Skyline Loop hike of the previous day.
A closer look at Comet Falls
Lupine near the falls
Rainbow under Comet Falls
2.7 miles into the hike, there's a trail intersection. To the
right is Van Trump Park, and to the left is Mildred Point. I was
hoping to visit both; we first took the right path toward Van
Trump Park.
After a short climb, we came to a clearing. Jean sat down for
a break while I investigated the trails in the area. I took a
trail leading up to a ridge, thinking that would be it and I'd
turn around. But it kept going past that. Soon I had great views
of green hillsides dotted with wildflowers; above that, snow patches,
glaciers, and the summit of Mt. Rainier itself. To the south were
great views of the Tatoosh Range, Mt. Adams, and Mt. St. Helens
-- views better than the previous day's hike.
View of Mt. Rainier from Van Trump Park
I kept going, but I kept reaching false summits. I had no idea
the trail went this far. It was also quite steep. In the end I
would end up climbing 500 feet from where Jean was. I was torn
between returning and telling her to come up with me, and going
on so I didn't have to do all this climbing again. I was frustrated
that I hadn't brought my radio along with me -- it was in my pack,
next to Jean. As I neared the top, I saw some people coming down;
I told them to notify Jean where I was. I ran up to the top, took
some pictures, then raced back down. I'd been gone about a half
hour by the time I rejoined Jean, who was battling all the bugs
which were biting her.
Descending from the top of Van Trump Park
We descended back to the trail intersection, then headed toward
Mildred Point. We shortly came to a pair of hikers coming from
Mildred Point. I asked how it was and they replied "Beautiful.
Gorgeous." Encouraged, we continued on.
On the way to Mildred Point
This should give you a sense of how steep it was. No switchbacks.
The trail actually descends down to the river just above Comet
Falls, crosses it via a foot bridge, then starts climbing. And
climbing. And climbing some more. The trail, unfortunately, disdains
the use of switchbacks. It heads straight up a gully. The "trail"
if you could call it that, had deteriorated into sand, which made
climbing even worse. There are some arguably nice views along
the way (if you're not too exhausted to notice them). But Mildred
Point gives a view of a "blasted crater" as Jean put it. Basically,
for all the effort put into getting there, the view sucks. It
was supposed to give, according to my hiking book, "a stunning
view of the recalcitrant Kautz Glacier." It actually was stunning
-- stunning that after such a tough climb we were rewarded with
such a horrible view. It was a big giant gray crater with a dirty
glacier on top. And I still don't know what recalcitrant means.
The "blasted crater" view at Mildred Point
A closer look at the recalcitrant Kautz Glacier. I wonder if those
"clouds" are actually caused by an ice fall.
After that disappointment we rapidly started our descent. Our
trekking poles helped us zip down the mountain. While we were
disappointed with Mildred Point, Comet Falls and Van Trump Park
were very nice. If I ever do this hike again, I'll just be sure
not to take the left fork.
Return to Seattle/Olympic/Rainier trip report.
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